D15 Rice Model

Even a blind Squirrel finds a nut sometimes.

We purchased a D15 with odd fenders and support.  After a little research we have determined it must be the Rice Model.  What is challenging is that only the parts books lists any reference to the rice model.  No one has come forward owning one, nor has anyone claimed to have seen one.

The tractor is for sale and if you are interested, please contact us directly.  I’ll post up a few photos and see if you can see the differences.

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Another “discovery” and I’m out of midnight oil

It’s almost 3am and I finally called it a day.  Running since 8am.

The CA gave me  a final surprise as I prepped it to run.  Here’s what I found after removing the oil filter:

IMG_20140609_135038How on earth do you get that much water in the oil?   So the filter base had to be removed, and passages cleaned out.  It was as if someone had pumped tar into the port.  But it cleaned up and finally flowed oil.

So after trying to start, I tore down the carb and found a plugged jet.  At 2:30 am, she finally came to life.  Still needs tuning, and the proper wires, but here it is:

 

 

The tractor of “don’t”

We after getting into the engine, I am seeing many of the “don’ts” that another repairman put in.  Wrong rod nuts, sleeves not  cleaned, wrong head bolts, and so much more.

One very common mistake I see is machinists wanting to put umbrella seals on the valvestems:
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The Allis Engines DO NOT USE THEM.  Please don’t add them thinking that they will control oil consumption.  If you are using oil this will only make the stems run  dry and wear faster.

 

Here’s a photo of why leaving exhaust open/uncovered in rain is bad.  Water collects on the valves, and here is the result:

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Oh no! A cracked block!

IMG_20140603_191042I get calls on these at least once a month.  Sometimes a couple a week.  This is the block for the CA in the shop.  There is a crack between the cylinders.  This is very common on Allis engines, especially the 125 and the 201/226 blocks.  I always have a hard time convincing customers that it is common, and really nothing to worry about.  The liner seals to a fire-ring on the head gasket, and the fiber portion of the gasket will seal the water.  What matters is the lower webbing. In this case it looks OK, but there is so much sludge inside I will have to clean to inspect.  However from the lower side, it looked fine.

Don’t replace that block unless it is cracked on the lower webbing.  I’ve had customers replace and spend large amounts of money for a block they didn’t need.